Living guide. We update this page as new parts and combos get proven on our own cars and customer builds. Last updated July 2026.
Thinking about putting an LS in your E9x 3-series or E8x 1-series? You're in the right place. This page lists everything you'll need to get the swap done, from the big components down to the small parts that stall a build on a Sunday night.
Each section covers one system with a checklist you can work through. If you want the proven starting point, our full LS swap kits bundle the engine mounts, transmission crossmember, and accessory drive brackets into one package. Use this checklist to round out the rest. If something shows sold out, hit the restock notification on the product page and it'll come back around.
New to the platform? Watch our 4-part swap video series, check the body styles guide to confirm what you're working with, and browse our customer swaps to see what other people have built. xDrive car? Read the xDrive front subframe fitment photos first. Torn between engine families? Read LS vs LT before you buy anything.
Shop Swap Kits Watch the Swap Series
Affiliate note: As an Amazon Associate, LSE90 earns from qualifying purchases. Some links in this guide are Amazon affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, and it helps fund the free swap documentation on this site. Parts we make or stock link to LSE90 product pages. Commodity hardware links go to Amazon, and it's the same generic hardware we use on our own builds.
Jump to a section:
- Engine
- Accessory Drive
- Intake System
- Ignition System
- Fuel System
- Exhaust System
- Cooling System
- Transmission
- Electrical System
- Driveline & Suspension
- Miscellaneous
Engine
Engine Selection: Any LS Engine Can Fit Your E9x
Every LS shares the same external dimensions and mounting points, so anything from an LS1 to an LS7 or a truck LQ4 bolts to the same spots in your E9x chassis. Pick the LS that fits your goals and budget. It'll bolt in either way. The one to avoid is the LS4, the front-wheel-drive version. It doesn't belong in this swap.
Engine Mounts and Swap Kits
Every LSe9x swap starts with the mounts. Every placement and clearance note in this guide assumes our mount geometry, which was developed around the 302 style oil pans covered below. You have a few ways to buy in:
- Full LS Swap Kit with standard accessory drive: motor mounts, transmission crossmember for your gearbox, and the accessory drive brackets in one order.
- Full LS Swap Kit with Sanden AC drive: same package with the AC-ready drive. Note the compressor and alternator are not included, which is what the Amazon links in the Accessory Drive checklist are for.
- Engine mounts with crossmember or mounts only if you already have accessories sorted.
All of it fits E90, E91, E92, E93, E82, E88, and the early X1 (E84), because every E9x and E8x shares the same front subframe. Three heads-ups straight off the kit pages: none of it fits the Z4, M3 subframes need the M3 mount variant plus a standard rotation power steering pump, and N55 cars need N52 or N54 pulleys. If you're starting from a 335i, read the N55 notes before pulling the engine.
Building or freshening the long block while it's out? We stock Texas Speed cam packages and supporting valvetrain parts. Check LS Performance Parts for what's on the shelf.
Considering a Gen V LT instead? The same hardware family exists: LT mounts with crossmember and a full LT swap kit with Sanden AC. Our LT swap video series follows one of these builds start to finish.
Component Checklist:
- Long Block: Block, rotating assembly, cylinder heads
- Front cover
- Rear cover
- Valve covers
Sensors
- Crank and Cam Sensor: Correct for 24x or 58x engine, depending on engine generation (24x set / 58x set).
- 3-Wire Oil Pressure Sensor: Located in block or valley cover.
- Coolant Temperature Sensor: Front of driver-side cylinder head.
- Knock Sensors: (May not be used in all applications).
Long Block Coolant Plumbing
- Rear Steam Port Plugs or Crossover
- Front Steam Port Kit
- Block Coolant Plugs: Note that the block heater will not clear the Sanden AC compressor.
- Passenger Side Head Coolant Plug
Oil Pan
Our swap mounts were developed around the 302-2 and 302-1 type oil pans. These low-profile, rear sump pans clear the 2WD subframe without hanging below it.
- E9x/8x RWD Options: 302-1 and 302-2 style pans fit best. The 302-1 provides clearance for a turbo hot side between the oil pan and K-member.
- E9x/8x xDrive Options: xDrive cars have more room, so the factory LS3 pan, an F-body pan, and most other RWD pans fit.
Component Checklist:
- Oil pan assembly. New 302 style pan kits include the pickup, gasket, and hardware. Buying used? Make sure the matching pickup tube and bolt come with it, because truck and car pickups will not fit these pans.
- Dipstick and tube that match the pan
- Oil cooler or block off plate
- Oil filter
- RTV sealant
Starter
A standard LS starter will clear our engine mounts, but the later model LS starters are slightly shorter and recommended. A 2007 and up Silverado style starter is the easy choice: short body, with a simple bolt-on 8mm hex stud for the solenoid wire. A later starter with the round plug-type connector also works with a pigtail. Full wiring detail, including which strut tower stud gets the main power, is in our starter wiring guide.
Component Checklist:
- 2008 Silverado LS starter (bolt-on solenoid stud)
- LS starter pigtail for solenoid (only for plug-type starters)
- Starter bolts
- 2 gauge or larger cable for main power, plus 10 gauge wire for the solenoid signal
Accessory Drive
Spacing Overview
First, choose your accessory drive spacing, which is the distance between the crankshaft pulley and the block. Then pick the drive that matches: the LSe9x standard accessory drive, the LSe9x Sanden AC drive, or the low-mount drive for budget or no-AC builds. The accessory drive instructions page has the full color-coded spacer chart, and the Sanden AC drive install video walks through the whole assembly.

Recommendations:
- Corvette and F-body spacing give you more room to work and more clearance for turbo parts.
The part numbers below are proven reference combinations. Many equivalent variations exist, and any matching set of pump, tensioner, and pulley for a given spacing will work.
Corvette Spacing
- Water Pump: ACDELCO 252-846 (C5 style)
- Tensioner: ACDELCO 38194
- Crank Pulley: ACDELCO 12674582
Camaro/F-Body Spacing
- Water Pump: ACDELCO 252-846
- Tensioner: ACDELCO 38195
- Crank Pulley: ACDELCO 12553118
Truck/SUV Spacing
- Water Pump: ACDELCO 251-734
- Tensioner: ACDELCO 12628025
- Crank Pulley: ACDELCO 12675620
Our Billet L99 Tensioner Relocation Kit can be used with the L99 tensioner to add additional intake clearance around the tensioner.
Alternator
The stock BMW E9x chassis uses a 180-amp alternator, while a standard factory LS alternator typically outputs only 105-165 amps. That's not enough. The BMW chassis is power hungry, with its many modules, electric fans, and fuel pumps, so a higher-output alternator matters here.
- Recommended: A 220-amp AD244-style LS alternator keeps the voltage stable and the BMW modules happy. Low voltage is where the weird electrical gremlins come from.
- Ground it properly: our alternator bracket is powder coated and will not conduct ground through the bracket. Run a dedicated ground strap to the alternator, or sand the coating at the mounting point. This one causes real charging problems and it's a two dollar fix.
- Trigger wire: the Sloppy Mechanics trigger harness handles the exciter signal. Running a 1-wire setup instead? Any key-on 12V source works with a 470 ohm resistor inline. Skip the resistor and you can burn out the voltage regulator.
- Spinning it high? We make a 3.1 inch billet aluminum alternator pulley that replaces the GM steel pulley on F-body, GTO, and truck alternators.
Power Steering
The swap keeps the BMW hydraulic rack. Most builds run a GM LS pump on the accessory drive with an adapter fitting to the BMW pressure line and a remote reservoir. M3 subframes need a standard rotation pump, straight off the kit page. One warning worth repeating: the BMW rack and GM pumps do not spec the same fluid, so flush the rack and commit to one compatible fluid rather than mixing.
- LS power steering pump with reservoir
- Pressure line adapter fittings and low pressure return hose
Air Conditioning
For LS swaps in the E9x chassis, you have two main options for the air conditioning system:
- GM AC Compressor and Mounts: You can use a factory GM AC compressor with compatible mounts. This works, but it takes extra modification and custom fittings to tie into the BMW AC system.
- LSe9x Sanden AC Drive: Built for a clean, plug-and-play install with a Sanden compressor. It keeps the full passenger side clear, which turbo builds appreciate, and it pairs with our plug and play AC lines and AC adapter fittings. The chassis side stays BMW: your condenser, drier, and pressure sensor stay right where they are, and the lines join the Sanden to the factory hard lines.
Running Holley? Compressor engagement goes through our CAN box, which reads the factory AC button and requests the compressor with an idle-up delay. The AC control article and the AC configuration walkthrough video cover the setup end to end. Budget for new O-rings at any joint you open, a fresh drier if the system sat open, PAG oil, and an evacuate-and-recharge.
Component Checklist:
- Accessory brackets kit
- Crank pulley
- Water pump and tensioner
-
220-amp AD244-style alternator
- Trigger wire (see above)
- Main power and ground wire
- Power steering pump with lines and reservoir (see above)
- AC compressor: Sanden 508 compressor
Accessory Drive Hardware
- Crank Bolt: GM LS crank bolt (PN 12557840) or ARP LS crank bolt kit
- Water Pump Bolts: 6 x M8-1.25 x 80mm, plus water pump gaskets
- Thermostat Housing Bolts: 2 x M6-1.00 x 20mm
- Thermostat: 187 degree is the stock replacement, 160 is common on tuned cars
- Belt Tensioner Bolts
- Serpentine belt: rope-measure after assembly, or check the instructions page. The Sanden drive runs its own dedicated AC belt, so verify both before final assembly.
Intake System
Component Checklist:
- Intake Manifold: stock LS1, LS6, and LS2 manifolds all work fine. Stepping up? The BTR Equalizer package (cathedral or square port) is the popular pick, and we stock FAST and Holley Hi-Ram options too. The Holley Lo-Ram may not clear the stock fan, and tall runners need a hood clearance check. Browse all intake manifolds we stock.
- Throttle Body: Drive-by-wire, chosen to match your intake. The BMW pedal is drive-by-wire, so this is not optional.
Intake Manifold Plumbing
- Brake Booster: large hose from the manifold to the BMW booster, with an inline check valve and adapter fitting to step down to the BMW hose size.
- Vacuum Lines: big cam? You may need an electric vacuum pump for consistent brake assist.
- PCV System: stock plumbing works for naturally aspirated builds. Boosted setups should run a baffled catch can.
Sensors
- MAP Sensor: match it to your intake and harness. Boosted builds need a 2-bar or higher sensor.
- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Gaskets
- Intake Manifold Gaskets: LS1 style or LS3 style to match your manifold
- Throttle Body Gasket
Intake Tube and Filter
Ignition System
Nothing exotic here. Any LS coil works with any ECU in this guide, and most swaps just reuse the coils that came on the engine. The LQ9 truck coils are the proven budget upgrade if yours are tired. Match the coil connector to your harness, and if you're running long tube headers, put heat sleeves on the plug wires nearest the primaries.
Component Checklist:
- Coils
- Coil mounting brackets and hardware (valve cover mount or remote)
- Spark plug wires
- Spark plugs: NGK TR55 is the standard LS swap plug. Tighten the gap for boost.
- Heat management
Fuel System
The stock E9x system is returnless and runs 72 psi with no vacuum reference. Our fuel system page covers the whole topic in depth, including the saddle tank design and pump control. The short version by power level:
- Up to about 400 hp: the stock BMW fuel system with minimal upgrades gets it done.
- 400 to 600 hp: one high capacity in-tank pump, like a Walbro 450 or our Hellcat 525.
- 600 hp and up: dual in-tank pumps, or a surge tank setup.
Pump control matters too. MaxxECU can keep the factory EKP fuel pump module. Holley and other LS ECUs can't talk to it, so the EKP gets replaced with a quality 30/40 amp relay. The wiring diagram is on the fuel page and in our wiring info guide. Common tank mods are a return bulkhead on the passenger side and a 6AN quick connect fitting on the driver side feed.
Component Checklist:
- Fuel pump: we stock the Walbro Hellcat 525 and DeatschWerks 415. The fuel system collection has the current lineup.
- Corrugated nylon fuel line for in-tank pump installs
- Fuel lines: the stock line is 5/16" with EFI quick connects. Going E85 or big power? Use PTFE-lined hose and quick connect adapters.
- Fuel filter: 10 micron EFI filter after the pump
- Fuel regulator: LS injector data is usually rated at 58 psi.
- Fuel injectors, matched on all three counts:
- Connector type (EV1, EV6, Multec) must match your harness
- O-ring size: check the intake's lower injector O-ring. LS3 intakes use a larger lower O-ring than LS1.
- Length must correspond to your fuel rail choice
- We stock VS Racing 210 lb EV6 injectors for big E85 builds
- Fuel Rails
- GM fuel rails use a 3/8" male quick-connect fitting
- Fuel rail to fit intake and injector application
- Fuel rail inlet plumbing/adapter
- Surge tank for track, E85, or 600+ hp builds: Radium multi-pump or DeatschWerks 5.5L
- Flex fuel: add a GM flex fuel sensor in the feed line. Our flex fuel and alternator combo harness plugs it straight into a Terminator X.
Exhaust System
Header/Manifold Options: RWD
- LSe9x Long Tubes: 1-7/8" stainless primaries with 3" merge collectors, built on this chassis with our mounts, MLS gaskets and flange bolts included. Heads up: they will not clear 6-bolt heads without modification, and the stock clutch master line will not clear the driver side header (the braided replacement line in the Transmission section solves that).
- CX Racing LS Swap E90 Headers
- Gen 5 Camaro Exhaust Manifolds
- Summit Racing/Generic V Band and 2-Bolt Cast Exhaust Manifolds
Header/Manifold Options: xDrive
Going turbo? Mayhem Fab builds turbo kits specifically for these swaps. See our VSR billet turbos, and remember the 302-1 pan leaves room for the hot side.
O2 Sensors and Bungs
- Wideband O2 and controller matched to your ECU. Holley, MaxxECU, and Haltech each spec their own kit, so buy the matching one.
- Weld-in M18x1.5 bungs if your collectors don't have them, plus plugs for unused holes
- O2 extension harnesses to reach the ECU harness
Component Checklist (all builds):
- Exhaust from the collectors back: most builds run 3" with an X or H pipe and a universal muffler or two
- V-band clamps at the collectors, plus hangers
- Gaskets and header bolts (our long tubes include both)
- Mock-up tip: check steering shaft and driveshaft tunnel clearance with the engine at final height before you weld anything.
Cooling System
The stock BMW radiator handles most LS swaps, with two primary versions:
- Turbo Models: the N54/N55 cars got a smaller, shorter radiator that leaves space for the factory intercooler. Building boost? That space is where your front mount goes, so plan the piping before you pick a radiator.
- Non-Turbo Models and M3: full-height radiator with more capacity. If you're not using the stock intercooler location, the full-height radiator and fan are a straight bolt-in upgrade.
- Aftermarket Options: full aluminum versions of both are available on our site, including the CSF units for 335i manual, 335i automatic, and the N52 cars, plus our triple-pass aluminum M3 radiator for the most capacity in a factory-style fit. The collection page shows what's on hand.
Component Checklist:
- Radiator
- Fan and shroud: the stock BMW electric fan is ideal, and it's PWM controlled. Both Holley and MaxxECU drive it with one wire. Keep commanded duty at 90% or below, because the BMW fan shuts off at 100%. Setup is in the fan configuration guide.
- Coolant expansion tank: run one, whatever you do. You need a pressurized high point fill and somewhere to land the steam vent. The stock BMW tank can be reused, or our aluminum driver side tank (cap included, 12AN lower and 4AN steam ports) bolts to the existing driver side mounts and frees up the passenger side for turbo plumbing.
- Radiator hose fittings: the BMW plastic quick connects are 15+ years old and brittle. Our aluminum replacements (straight, heater port, and nipple versions) are the fix while you're building hoses.
- Upper and lower radiator hoses: with all the different engine, radiator, and spacing combos there's no single recipe here. The LSE9x Facebook group is a good place to see what hose combinations other builders have run.
- Heater hose and connections (the heater port version of our fittings above handles the BMW side), plus clamps
- Thermostat: covered in Accessory Drive hardware, one section up
- Coolant: flush the system and commit to one coolant type, never a mix
For Gen V LT engines, our billet swivel thermostat housing adapts the LT to a standard LS3 thermostat and clocks the outlet toward the E9x upper hose.
Transmission
The transmission choice shapes the rest of the build, from the crossmember to the driveshaft to the electronics. These are some of the common options, not all of them. Plenty of other transmissions can be adapted to this chassis.
Compatible Transmissions:
-
T56/TR6060 Manual Transmissions
- Overview: The go-to manuals for this swap. Strong, common, and well supported.
- Mounting: Our swap kits include crossmembers for these transmissions.
- Notes: You'll need a matching bellhousing and clutch assembly. For big power builds we carry McLeod RST and RXT twin disc kits.
-
4L80E Automatic Transmission
- Overview: The strong one. It takes big power without complaint.
- Mounting: Installation requires minor chassis trimming to clear the pan and transmission connector. Our kit provides a dedicated crossmember for this transmission, and our connector relocation bushing solves the tunnel clearance at the case connector.
-
TH400 Automatic Transmission
- Overview: A tough 3-speed that drag cars have leaned on for decades.
- Mounting: Works with our kits. Just order the right crossmember.
- Notes: Three gears and no overdrive means it screams on the highway. Know that going in.
-
4L60E Automatic Transmission
- Overview: Lighter duty than the 4L80E. Fine behind a mild build.
- Mounting: Works with our kits. Just order the right crossmember.
- Notes: Be honest about your power target. A healthy 6.0 will eat a stock 4L60E.
-
BMW GS6-53BZ Manual Transmission (335i 6-Speed)
- Overview: The 6-speed out of a RWD 335i works behind an LS.
- Mounting: Set our mounts in the forward-most position with a PMC adapter and the transmission sits right where the factory automatic did.
- Driveshaft Compatibility: Use an automatic 335i driveshaft. It works with the automatic crossmember, or the DCT crossmember with some adjustment.
- Adapter Plate: The adapter plate for this setup can be purchased from Drift HQ. Look for the "LS -> N54 GS6-53BZ Adapter Kit."
-
Clutch Options: PMC offers two flywheel options with the LS -> N54 adapter kit:
- 240mm flywheel designed for stock-style clutches. Pair it with a 550i or 335is clutch for standard performance.
- 184mm flywheel for twin or triple disc clutches on serious power.
- Notes: Skip the 328i 6-speed, though. It brings headaches the 335i box doesn't.
-
AR5 Manual Transmission
- Overview: The AR5, out of the Pontiac Solstice and Chevy Colorado, works behind an LS.
- Mounting: Requires an adapter plate to mate with the LS bellhousing pattern.
- Crossmember Compatibility: Customers have run our T56/TR6060 crossmember with this transmission.
- Shifter Positioning: Check that the shifter lands close to the F-body T56 location so it lines up with the chassis opening.
-
CD009 Manual Transmission
- Overview: The CD009, found in Nissan 350Z and some Infiniti G35 models, is the cheap way to put a strong 6-speed behind an LS.
- Mounting: Requires a specific adapter plate to mate with the LS engine.
- Crossmember Compatibility: Can be used with our T56/TR6060 crossmember.
- Shifter Positioning: The shifter position needs adjusting to line up with the chassis, same idea as the F-body T56.
-
8HP Automatic Transmission
- Overview: The ZF 8HP series automatic can be used with an adapter plate and aftermarket control such as Turbo Lamik or MaxxECU. Fast shifts, deep gearing, and it takes real power. Our guide Why the ZF 8HP Is Perfect for Your E9x LS Swap covers the whole thing, donor to first drive.
- Mounting: The LSe9x DCT crossmember works when paired with our 8HP upper mount bracket on the transmission side, and our LS/LT to 8HP adapter plate handles the bellhousing.
- Electronic Control: Needs standalone transmission control. MaxxECU handles it over CAN, and the Race and Pro both run the 8HP and the E9x chassis CAN at the same time. Early Race firmware could only do one or the other, so update yours if it's been sitting.
- Supporting parts: our universal 8HP swap harness (Gen 1 8HP45/70/90, pick the BMW F30 or Dodge shifter variant to match your donor), MaxxECU shifter cable for the BMW shifter or Dodge shifter, and the ACDP TCU flash tool, available to rent or buy.
-
6L80E Automatic Transmission
- Overview: GM's common 6-speed auto. Handles a healthy street build in stock form.
- Electronic Control: Can be controlled by the Holley Terminator X Max with 6L80E control. See the Holley collection for the transmission-control part numbers we stock.
- Crossmember Compatibility: Our TH400 crossmember can be used for the 6L80E.
- Notes: Six gears and overdrive make it easy to live with on the highway without giving anything up at the track.
Flexplate, Flywheel, and Clutch Hydraulics
- Automatics: LS flexplate with ARP flexplate bolts and torque converter bolts. Verify the converter is LS pattern: the LS crank flange sits deeper than an old small block, so early TH400/4L80E converters need an LS-specific converter or a spacer kit.
- Manuals: flywheel with ARP flywheel bolts and a standard GM LS pilot bearing. LS-era T56/TR6060 input shafts reach the deep LS pilot position on their own. Extended pilot bushings are only for adapting older short input shafts, so don't buy one for a T56/TR6060.
- T56/TR6060 hydraulics: the internal slave cylinder with the right shims for air gap, a remote bleeder line, and a braided adapter line from the BMW clutch master to the GM slave. That braided line also fixes the clutch-line-to-header clearance problem noted in the Exhaust section.
- Auto-to-manual conversions also need the manual pedal assembly and clutch switch wiring. The jumper details are in the wiring info guide.
Component Checklist:
- Transmission Crossmember: included in our kits, or available separately for T56/TR6060, 4L80E, 4L60E, TH400, and DCT/8HP, with xDrive versions for T56/TR6060, 4L80E, and 8HP.
- Transmission Mount: GM-style rubber mount; a Prothane mount is recommended.
- Driveshaft: a custom-length driveshaft connects the transmission to the BMW differential. Full details in the Driveline section below.
- Shifter Assembly: verify the shifter lands in the E9x console opening. Short-throw or relocation kits may be needed. 4L80E builds: our 4L80E shifter bracket.
- Transmission Cooling: a GM automatic needs its own cooler in this chassis, so run an external stacked plate cooler with lines, plus a swap dipstick.
- Electronic Controls: automatics need a TCU or ECU transmission control. The ECU comparison covers who controls what.
- Reverse lights: one wire and some coding. The reverse lights guide has the pinout.
Electrical System
Engine Management
You can't start the engine without a standalone ECU and harness, so decide this early. Three platforms we stock, support, and run on our own cars. The full breakdown is in our ECU comparison article.
- Holley Terminator X Max: the budget-friendly favorite with a huge tuner network, built-in drive-by-wire, and control for 4L60E, 4L80E, and later 6L80E automatics. It needs our CAN box for the BMW chassis, and it has no cruise control. Picking the part number comes down to your crank trigger (24x or 58x) and injector connector (EV1 or EV6). Our part number guide walks through it, and the Holley collection has the part numbers we carry. Drive-by-wire is mandatory in this chassis, so only DBW part numbers apply.
- MaxxECU: the only one with native E9x CAN support, so no conversion box needed. Cruise control works, flex fuel and staged injection are built in, and it controls the ZF 8HP. We stock the MaxxECU Mini and the Race with our terminated LS harness. The harness install guide covers the wiring, including the external relays and fusing you'll add.
- Haltech Nexus Rebel LS: built specifically for LS swaps, with cruise control support. It needs our Haltech CAN box for the chassis side and an add-on module for GM automatic control. Match Gen III (24x) or Gen IV (58x) to your engine, same 24x/58x logic as the Holley part numbers.
Chassis Integration (CAN Bus and Cluster)
The E9x cluster, fans, and AC all talk on BMW's CAN network, and a standalone ECU alone won't drive them. That's what our conversion boxes are for:
- Holley CAN box: working factory tach, the 335i oil temp gauge reads coolant temp, clean dash with no brake or DSC lights on RWD cars, wheel speeds into the Holley, AC button status, correct starter function through the BMW ignition, and the factory cruise stalk becomes Holley LCD switch inputs. One warning from the product page: never flash Holley firmware with the CAN box plugged in. Setup notes are in the CAN box configuration guide.
- Haltech CAN box: the same chassis functions for Haltech Elite, Nexus, and Rebel ECUs, with an inline DTM4 harness so there's no splicing.
- LT swap on the GM E92 factory ECU? We make a conversion box for that too, covered in the LT swap wiring guide.
On N55 cars the cluster needs a small recode for the CAN box, covered in the N55 notes. Prefer a full replacement dash? Our cluster replacement dash mount fits a Holley Pro Dash, and we make dash vent and ash tray mounts for the 3.5" Holley screen.
Basic Wiring Supplies
Start with our swap wiring information guide. It covers the key-on power source (a fuse tap at the cigarette lighter fuse, fuse 8 or 30 depending on year), the jump stud on the passenger strut tower for constant 12V (use the large unfused stud for starter and alternator power, never the small one), and every DME box connector you'll touch. The Holley wiring video shows the whole job on a real car. We also stock the swap-specific connectors Amazon doesn't have: the E9x DBW pedal connector kit and MAK8 connector kit.
- Fuel Pump Wiring and Relays: if you're not on MaxxECU, the factory EKP module gets replaced with a quality 30/40 amp relay. The pin-by-pin diagram is in the wiring guide, and our relay basics article explains the pattern.
- Wire: quality automotive-grade wire in various gauges for power, signal, and ground.
- Large Gauge Wire: 2 gauge cable and copper lugs for the alternator and starter runs. The battery lives in the trunk, so buy more than you think.
- Relays and Sockets: for fans, fuel pump, and AC clutch.
- Connectors: Deutsch DT or Weather Pack kits for anything you build yourself.
- Heat Shrink: adhesive-lined heat shrink for insulation and strain relief.
- Sheathing and Loom: high-temp loom keeps the bay tidy and protects against heat and abrasion.
- Fuses and Fuse Holders: waterproof inline holders for every new circuit.
- Grounds: ground straps from block to chassis on both sides, plus the dedicated alternator ground covered above. Half of all swap electrical problems are grounds.
Driveline & Suspension
Driveshaft
Our driveshaft basics article covers this in detail. Three routes, depending on your transmission:
- Single-piece fixed shaft with a slip yoke, for transmissions with a slip-in output (4L80E, TH400, 4L60E, F-body T56). Steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber.
- Single-piece slip shaft, for fixed-yoke transmissions (TR6060, CTS-V T56), where the slip is built into the shaft.
- Modifying the stock BMW shaft is possible but hard to get done, since few shops will touch the front section.
Measure only after the drivetrain is in its final position with the mounts torqued, and shim the transmission mount if the driveline angle needs help. Summit, Driveshaft Shop, Strange, and Dennys all build these to length. Add our driveshaft safety loops (front and rear, NHRA compliant) if you'll see the strip. xDrive cars use our guibo driveshaft adapter.
Differential and Axles
The stock BMW diff stays, and that's what our adapters are for:
- 335i/135i splined adapter: the large-case diff is the strength pick with the most LSD options.
- 325i/328i adapter: the medium-case diff works fine at moderate power.
- The differential collection shows current stock.
A 335i diff swaps into a 328i car as long as the diff and its output cups move together, since the cup splines match the axles. Pick a final drive that suits your gearing: a deep-overdrive T56 wants a numerically higher ratio than a TH400. Rebuilding the rear end anyway? Read the rear knuckle and hub guide first. The 30-spline knuckles and hubs are what aftermarket axles from G-Force and DSS expect.
Big power or serious launches? Our Ford 8.8 IRS swap kit (differential not included) replaces the BMW diff entirely. It's lighter than the iron BMW unit, customers have gone sub-1.2 in the 60 foot on it, and the fastest E9x and E8x cars run it. Plan on custom axles from Driveshaft Shop or Seems Legit Garage, and note it doesn't fit M3 models. Watch the Ford 8.8 install video to see what's involved.
Suspension
Your stock suspension bolts right back in, and whatever coilovers or arms you're already running will work too. When you're ready to upgrade, our Stance custom coilovers are made for LS swapped cars, with the setup matched to your chassis and block type (iron or aluminum), 16-way adjustable monotubes, and front camber plates. Drag-focused builds run our Fox body strut conversion up front, and trailing arms, toe links, subframe braces, and drag bags are in the suspension collection. A V8 changes the corner weights, so plan an alignment after the swap either way.
Miscellaneous
- Heat Wrap or Shielding: protects components near the exhaust or turbo. Reflective gold tape works well on the tunnel and firewall side.
- PCM Mount: a secure home for the ECU. A rivnut kit is the clean way to mount it (and everything else) to the chassis.
- Firewall Grommets: for routing wiring and hoses through the firewall.
- Front bumper quick-release mount: you'll have the bumper off a dozen times during the swap. Make it a 30 second job.
- Gauge and screen mounting: covered in the Electrical section (cluster dash mount, dash vent and ash tray screen holders).
Fluids and Consumables
- Engine oil and filter (5W-30 covers most LS builds)
- Coolant: one type, in a flushed system
- Transmission fluid: Dexron VI for GM autos, or the correct manual fluid for your box
- Diff fluid: 75W-90 GL-5, with friction modifier for LSD units
- Power steering fluid: one compatible fluid, per the Power Steering note in Accessory Drive
- DOT4 brake and clutch fluid
- RTV, threadlocker, anti-seize, and dielectric grease
LS Swap FAQ
Which LS should I use? Any LS V8 works with the E9x and E8x chassis. The only one to avoid is the front-wheel-drive LS4. M3 cars need the M3-specific mounts.
Will this work on my xDrive car? Yes, two ways: keep the xDrive front subframe or convert to RWD. Either way you'll use the xDrive crossmember, and the swap is rear-drive only, since there's no off-the-shelf way to keep AWD.
Can I keep working AC? Yes. The Sanden drive plus our PnP lines tie into the factory BMW system, and the CAN box handles compressor requests from the factory buttons.
Do the gauges still work? With the CAN box, the factory tach works, the 335i oil temp gauge reads coolant temp, and the dash stays clean on RWD cars. Nearly everything else in the interior keeps working like stock.
What does a swap cost? It varies too much to give one number, since the engine and transmission dominate the budget. Our budget LT swap video breaks down a real build's numbers.
More questions? The full FAQ covers brakes, wiring, cooling, and more.
Ready to start your swap?
LSE90 started in a Houston garage back in 2016, and every part on this page starts in CAD and gets proven on our own cars before it ships. Browse the customer builds for ideas, and when yours runs, submit it to get featured. Questions about your combo? Email Sales@lse90.com. Orders over $250 ship free in the lower 48.