Why the ZF 8HP Is Perfect
for Your E9x LS Swap

This is everything we've learned running the ZF 8HP behind an LS in an E9x or E8x, put on one page. It covers which donor transmission to buy, how the adapter and converter go together, mounting and the driveshaft, cooling, wiring, and the one-time TCU flash.

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Why Choose the ZF 8HP?

The 8HP runs eight speeds, from a deep 4.70 first down to a 0.67 eighth, which is a spread of just over 7:1. That range is wide enough that the same transmission leaving hard off the line will also hold the highway at under 3,000 rpm, where an older three or four-speed automatic has to give up one end to get the other. Factory shift times are around 200 milliseconds, and on the paddles it feels a lot closer to a dual-clutch than to a classic automatic.

ZF rates the 8HP70 at 516 lb-ft from the factory, but a healthy stock one will happily live in the 600 to 800 lb-ft range, and a built transmission goes well past 1,000, so you have a lot of room before power is the thing holding you back. Running it on MaxxECU also gives you a transbrake, launch control, kickdown, and shift points as high as 9,200 rpm on the factory mechatronics.

The 8HP fits into the E9x tunnel with our mount and crossmember without any modifications. And because ZF built these by the millions for BMW, Dodge, and Jaguar Land Rover, donor cores and service parts stay cheap and easy to find. For a street and track BMW that is a hard combination to beat: a modern eight-speed with great torque capacity at an affordable price.

Picking Your Donor

Two things decide whether a donor will work before you look at anything else, and the first is the generation. MaxxECU only controls the Gen 1 8HP45, 8HP70, and 8HP90, so the Gen 2 units (the 8HP50, 8HP75, 8HP95, and Chrysler's 850RE) are not an option with MaxxECU. Some applications moved to Gen 2 around 2019, the new-body Ram being the obvious one when it went to the 8HP75, while plenty of others stayed Gen 1 for years, so read the model tag on the left rear of the case before you pay for anything.

The second is the case itself. The bellhousing is cast into the main case and every manufacturer used its own bolt pattern, so a BMW or Jaguar 8HP70 won't bolt up to any of the LS adapter kits, which are all built around the Dodge Hemi pattern. What you want is a Dodge-sourced transmission specifically, not just any 8HP70.

Even within the Dodge family, the cases differ:

Donor Years What to know
Ram 1500 Classic 5.7 (8HP70) 2013-2024 RWD The one most people should get. Two starter bubbles mean the LS starter fits without cutting, the cooler line ports are smooth-bore, and the output flange already takes a 1350 driveshaft. They're everywhere and cheap, usually a few hundred dollars to about a grand used.
Charger / Challenger 5.7 and 6.4 (8HP70) 2014+ (verify Gen 1 on the tag) Works, with caveats: the OEM-style starter needs bellhousing trimming (or run an unshrouded aftermarket starter), the output flange doesn't take a 1350 U-joint directly, and there's no boss on the left side for a park release bracket.
Durango / Jeep 5.7 (8HP70) 2014+ (Gen 1 years) Same bellhousing as the truck, but a CV-style output flange (needs an adapter for a 1350 shaft) and threaded cooler ports.
Charger / Challenger Hellcat (8HP90) 2015-2023 The high-power option. The starter sits in a different spot than the other Dodge cases, and donors cost several times what a truck 8HP70 does.

A couple of smaller things apply to any donor. The torque converter pilot changed partway through the run, with 2013 to 2017 units using a 34 mm small pilot and 2018 and up using a 46 mm large pilot; the adapter kits come with pilots for both, though aftermarket converters like Circle D are built around the smaller 34 mm size.

Whatever you end up with, it's best to buy a running-condition pull with reasonable miles and service it on the bench before it ever goes in the car: pan, filter, fresh fluid, and a new seal on the mechatronics sleeve while everything is easy to get to.

What You'll Need

Part Your Options Notes
Transmission Gen 1 Dodge 8HP70 or 8HP90 See picking your donor. Ram truck case preferred.
Adapter Plate + Converter Adapter Our LS/LT to 8HP adapter kit, backed by Guru Autowerks Keeps your stock LS flexplate and the Dodge converter. Pilots for 34 mm and 46 mm converters included, plus dowels and threadlocker.
Controller MaxxECU (any current model) Runs the engine and the 8HP over CAN, plus the E9x chassis CAN. Race and Pro both do all of it at the same time on current firmware. TurboLamik is the standalone-TCU alternative if you're keeping another engine ECU.
Harness LSe9x universal 8HP swap harness Deutsch connectors throughout, pre-terminated TCU plug, shifter breakout, and an OBD breakout for flashing. BMW or Dodge shifter-adapter variants.
Shifter Dodge shifter, BMW F-series GWS shifter, or keypad emulation See shifters. Matching MaxxECU cables: BMW or Dodge.
Mount + Crossmember DCT/8HP crossmember + 8HP upper mount bracket Bolts to the OE frame rails and clears the 8HP pan. xDrive crossmember versions available.
Driveshaft Stock BMW shaft (6HP flange swap) or custom single piece, 1350 U-joint See mounting and driveshaft.
Trans Cooler AN-8 low-profile adapter block + 19 to 30 row cooler The BMW radiator does nothing for the 8HP.
Flash Tool ACDP-2, rent or buy One-time TCU firmware flash. It's the only tool that can read and write the full TCU memory.
Park Release Manual park release kit Strongly recommended. Without it a dead car is locked in Park. See the FAQ.
Service Parts Pan, filter, ZF Lifeguard 8 fluid, mechatronics sleeve Do it on the bench, not in the car.

Adapter, Flexplate, and Converter

The adapter kit is what mates the Dodge-pattern 8HP to the LS. It bolts the transmission case to the block and adapts the factory Dodge torque converter to your flexplate. The Dodge converter stays, and the kit's converter adapter bolts it to a standard GM flexplate.

Most of the fitment comes down to matching a few parts correctly. Any OEM or aftermarket LS flexplate works as long as it's one of the common patterns: 3-bolt 10-3/4 inch, 3-bolt 11-1/16 inch, or 6-bolt 11-1/2 inch. The converter pilot follows the same 34 mm and 46 mm split from above, with pilots for both in the kit and a little work needed on the 2018-and-up converters. Starter fitment depends on the donor case, with the Ram and Durango cases taking smooth-nose LS starters directly and the Charger and Challenger cases needing a little trimming or an unshrouded high-torque starter. The kit comes with dowel pins for both sides plus the right hardware and threadlocker.

While the transmission is out, there are a couple of clearance items worth doing. Grinding the unused bolt bosses off the bellhousing buys you tunnel clearance, and on a naturally aspirated car with long-tube headers you can take the left starter bubble off for header room.

Mounting and Driveshaft in the E9x

The transmission mounts from our LSe9x DCT/8HP crossmember with the Guru billet upper mount bracket on the transmission side, and that bracket takes either a GM TH350/TH400-style mount (the Energy Suspension 3.1108G poly mount) or BMW-style bushings, so you can set it up to match the rest of the car.

The output side is where the donor case comes back into it. The 8HP70 output is 43-spline, and the Ram truck flange takes a 1350 U-joint directly using the OEM Dodge 1350 flange (part 68417915A), while the Durango and Charger flanges need an adapter to get there. If you'd rather keep the stock BMW driveshaft, you swap the output flange off a BMW 6HP automatic onto the 8HP and the factory shaft bolts right up. Going custom, run a single-piece shaft with a 1350 joint and only measure for length once the drivetrain is sitting at final ride height on torqued mounts; our driveshaft guide covers how to measure. Rear gear choice ties straight into the 8HP's output shaft speed ceiling, which is covered in gears, tires, and output speed below, with a calculator for your own setup.

Gears, Tires, and Output Speed

Wheel speed is really just a chain of three numbers. Engine rpm divided by the transmission ratio gives you driveshaft rpm, that divided by the rear gear gives wheel rpm, and wheel rpm times tire circumference gives you speed. Here are the Gen 1 8HP70's ratios (the 8HP90's are within a hundredth or two):

Gear 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Ratio 4.70 3.13 2.10 1.67 1.29 1.00 0.84 0.67

That deep 4.70 first gear changes how you should think about rear gear. On 3.08s an 8HP already launches at a 14.5:1 overall ratio, where a 4L60E on 3.91s comes out to 12.0:1 and a TH400 on 4.10s to 10.2:1. Steep rear gears earned their reputation behind three and four-speed automatics that needed the help off the line, but the 8HP already has that multiplication built into first, so on this transmission a numerically high diff mostly trades away top speed for launch gearing you were going to have anyway.

Where the eight speeds really shine is between gears. The ratio steps are small, so each upshift in the upper gears only drops the engine 1,000 to 1,500 rpm and the motor stays right in its powerband through a whole pull, where a four-speed like the 4L60E gives up more than 3,000 rpm on the 1-2 shift alone (where converter slip is very important for a good combo). Overlay one in the calculator below and you can see it as a much finer sawtooth. The double overdrive is the other half of it: on 3.08s the 8HP is turning just under 2,000 rpm at 70 mph, where a TH400 on 4.10s would be spinning close to 3,900 at the same speed.

For some reference numbers: Dodge gears the Hellcat's 8HP90 with 2.62s and still runs it to 203 mph, the F90 M5 tops out on a 3.15, and even the 700-horsepower Trackhawk carries only 3.70s, every one of them leaning on the deep first gear instead of a steep differential. That's the same logic that makes a 2.81, 3.08, or 3.15 the natural fit in an E9x.

With gearing this deep, first gear is optional in street driving. MaxxECU has a gear 1 lockout input that starts the transmission in 2nd and never lets it drop into 1st, which is an easy way to calm the launch down if you've ended up with a numerically higher differential. Even locked out of first, an 8HP on 4.10s still leaves in a 12.8:1 overall ratio.

Top speed is the one place you need to pay attention, because the driveshaft turns at output shaft speed and that shaft has a ceiling. The output bearing is rated to 8,500 rpm and the factory Dodge TCU starts its output-speed protection just above 8,100, but treat those as the absolute limit rather than somewhere to spend time: the only documented output-bearing failure we've been able to find came from repeated 175 mph pulls at roughly 8,400 output rpm.

For anything sustained, keep driveshaft speed at or under 6,500 to 7,000 rpm. That's about where the factory 8HP cars sit at their own top speeds (a Hellcat Charger is turning around 6,100 rpm at 203 mph on its 2.62s, and the F90 M5 around 7,200 at 190), and it's also where most driveshafts run out of critical speed anyway, since a 50-inch 3-inch mild-steel shaft is only good for about 6,000 rpm and a 3.5-inch chromoly one for about 7,100. Because driveshaft rpm is wheel rpm times the rear gear, a numerically higher diff reaches those numbers at a lower road speed, so on a typical E9x tire a 4.10 hits 7,000 output rpm around 130 mph while a 3.15 doesn't get there until about 165. The short version is not to gear the car past where you actually plan to use it.

A taller tire moves the same math in your favor, lowering rpm at any given speed and raising the road speed where the output shaft tops out.

For the factory-style BMW differential, the 3.08, the diesel 2.81, and the M3's 3.15 are the ratios that pair well with the 8HP, and if you're running a Ford 8.8 rear, a 3.08 is the one to use.

Gearing Calculator

Put in your tire, rear gear, and shift rpm. The gold trace is what the engine does accelerating through the gears at your shift rpm, the faded lines are each gear on its own, the table shows the shift drops, and the two vertical lines are the output shaft speeds for your setup: amber for the 7,000 rpm recommended ceiling, red for the 8,500 rpm bearing max. You can also overlay another transmission's trace at the same rear gear, tire, and shift rpm; that comparison is gearing only. There's a standalone version of this calculator that runs any transmission, including your own ratios. All speeds assume a locked converter with zero slip. On the 8HP that's most of the drive: the lockup clutch closes early, typically by 2nd or 3rd gear in normal driving, and stays locked through shifts, so outside of launch these numbers are what the car sees.

Shifters

The 8HP is fully shift-by-wire, so there's no shift cable to run; the shifter only sends CAN messages, which leaves the choice fairly open.

The Dodge shifter (part 04670717AB) plugs straight in with our Dodge shifter cable and is the natural match if you started with a Dodge donor. If you'd rather keep the BMW interior looking factory, the F-series GWS electronic shifter from F2x/F3x/F8x cars (61319296896) or F0x/F1x cars (61319296904) works with the BMW shifter cable, and our shifter mount sits flush with the OE trim in the E9x console. You don't strictly need a physical shifter at all, since MaxxECU's shifter emulation can run P/R/N/D off a CAN keypad or plain switches, and there's a sequential option as well. Whichever way you end up selecting gears, you can wire the factory BMW paddles (or any buttons) to MaxxECU GP inputs and turn on shift-up and shift-down.

Wiring and the TCU Flash

The factory TCU stays bolted to the transmission and MaxxECU commands it over CAN. Our universal 8HP swap harness handles the physical side: a DT 6-pin main connector for switched 12V, ignition, ground, and CAN high/low, a pre-terminated TCU plug, a 4-pin shifter breakout, and an OBD breakout with a PT-CAN tap for flashing and diagnostics.

The flash itself is a one-time reflash of the factory TCU with MaxxECU's firmware, done on the bench (or in the car) with the ACDP-2 tool (rent ours or buy it). Once you're set up it's about a fifteen-minute job: read the TCU, send MaxxECU the identification, then flash their model-specific files in order. Two things to keep in mind, both straight from MaxxECU, are that the firmware is matched to the exact TCU (so check the Bosch part number before buying a donor if you can) and that a flashed TCU only works with MaxxECU afterward, so it won't run behind a stock Dodge or BMW computer anymore.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which 8HP should I buy?

For most builds it's a Gen 1 Dodge-case 8HP70, ideally out of a 2013 to 2017 Ram 1500 5.7. Those are cheap and everywhere, the LS starter fits without cutting, and the output flange takes a 1350 driveshaft directly. If you already know you're going past 800 lb-ft, start with a Hellcat 8HP90 instead. The Gen 2 units (8HP75, 8HP95, and the 850RE) aren't supported by MaxxECU, so skip those whatever the price.

Does the stock GM flexplate really work?

It does. The kit's converter adapter bolts the Dodge torque converter to your stock LS flexplate with nothing machined, and both the 34 mm and 46 mm converter pilots are in the kit, so you're covered whichever converter your donor came with.

Can I daily-drive on the stock converter?

Yes, the stock converter is perfectly happy being daily-driven. The only reason to change it is if you're chasing drag ETs and want a custom stall converter, and there Circle D is the usual choice and builds around the 34 mm small pilot.

Do my BMW paddle shifters still work?

They do. You wire the factory paddles to MaxxECU GP inputs, turn on shift-up and shift-down, and from there they work the way you'd expect.

Do I need the manual park release?

We strongly recommend one. The 8HP locks in Park any time it has no hydraulic pressure, so a car that won't start also can't be pushed, towed, aligned, or winched onto a trailer until you release it. A mechanical kit mounts to the pan flange and pulls the pawl with a cable, and if the car will ever see a trailer or a dyno it's well worth having. The one thing to watch is that Charger and Challenger cases lack the left-side boss some brackets bolt to, so confirm fitment if you're running a car-sourced case.

Can I run the 8HP with my Holley or another engine ECU?

Not with Holley on its own, since it has no 8HP support. The straightforward route is MaxxECU, which replaces the engine ECU and runs the engine and transmission together. If you're set on keeping a different engine ECU, a standalone TCU like TurboLamik can run the 8HP on its own, at the cost of a second controller and its own learning curve.

What about AWD and xDrive?

MaxxECU doesn't control the AWD 8HP variants or a transfer case, so the swap runs rear-drive only. An xDrive chassis still works fine, and we make xDrive versions of the crossmember for it, the drivetrain just ends up rear-wheel drive like the rest of the swap.

Why is my transmission in limp mode?

In a swap it's almost always one of three things: overheated fluid from an undersized cooler or a stuck factory bypass valve, a CAN or power wiring problem like bad wake-up sequencing or missing termination, or a tune asking for something outside the TCU's factory safety limits. The stock TCU keeps all of its protective logic even after the flash, so limp mode is usually it doing its job rather than something broken.

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